Our chefs were stoked to visit the internationally renowned butcher Dario Cecchini from Panzano in Chianti at his butcher shop, Antica Macelleria Cecchini. He’s been featured on Chef’s Table and in the book Heat by Bill Buford. There are numerous videos and articles highlighting his gregarious personality, his skill with a knife and respect for the animals he butchers. His philosophy is to use every part of the animal (even the snouts, feet and tails). Those are the cuts that he grew up eating. Even though he is an 8th generation butcher, he didn’t have his first steak until he was 18 because his family would eat the cuts of meat that nobody else wanted. These days people line up at his butcher shop for those “undesirable” pieces of meat, along with a recipe from Dario so they can enjoy what he claims are the best cuts.
Upon arrival, there was already a crowd of people outside the butcher shop. Our crew joined in and were greeted with generous pours of wine and samples of lardo smeared on bread.
We were seated at a large table (Dario insists on communal tables) and feasted on about 8 courses of meat, with the exception of the first course, which was fresh vegetables served with Dario’s special salt to wet our appetites.
Next came the subsequent meat courses, including charcuterie sliced thin, boiled brisket, Short rib, “from the butt” meatballs (a rare delicacy!) and Tuscan white beans in broth.
Dario made his rounds and came to greet our group at the table. The comraderie among chefs is something special. It’s like a different language that they share. Respect for each other’s craft is evident.
One of the main takeaways for our chefs was Dario’s philosophy on unsalted meat. He says that all you need is meat and fire and he does not salt the meat before cooking. Seasoning is left to the guest eating the meat to salt it to their liking. Everyone enjoyed his creativity using less desirable cuts of meat. Dario actually studied to be a veterinarian and has a deep love for animals. When his father became ill, Dario returned home to run the family butcher shop. His way of butchering gives full respect and gratitude to the animal. He learned early on to waste nothing and he instead holds each part of the animal in the highest regard.
That deep respect can be tasted in the incredible food that he prepares and shares with anyone who comes to visit his butcher shop or one of his restaurants in his tiny hometown of Panzano. Even though he has become world famous, it is Dario who greets you when you enter his shop. He has great pride and love for his craft. I can confidently say that our chefs share a similar pride with their craft. For them, visiting Dario was a true honor.