Embracing the Euro Camping Life

Throughout our European bike tour we have been staying at campgrounds most of the time. Camping in Europe is a lot different from camping in the states. Some of these campgrounds can hold thousands of people and have resort-like facilities. They offer hot showers, a place to wash clothes, sinks for washing dishes and usually a restaurant. Many also have a swimming pool, tennis courts, playgrounds and other amenities that we don’t even use. They are usually situated in a beautiful place; next to a lake, on the beach or in the mountains with a beautiful view.

Unlike campsites back home that are marked with a fire ring, most European campgrounds don’t even allow fires. Surprisingly there are rarely picnic tables, presumably because most people bring their own. Space is limited, so campsites often look like a parking lot with spaces for camper vans and RVs to squeeze in and hook up to electric boxes.

At first I really despised this type of camping/glamping that charges per person, per vehicle and per tent with zero space or privacy between campsites. (It comes to about 25€ for us). Nevertheless, we have found them to be convenient for bike touring and I have actually grown to like them. I think it’s the hot showers that convinced me. It’s also one-third of the price of staying in a basic hotel, so even though it seems pricey to sleep in a tent, it saves us money.

European camping, however, has challenged our American sense of space. Now that summer is officially here, campsites are filling up and RVs squeeze in like sardines. We were spoiled in Croatia, when we were visiting pre-season and had large campgrounds almost to ourselves. Now that it is mid-June we are lucky to get a spot for our little tent in these jam-packed places.

The most crowded and tightly packed camp that we have experienced was in South Tyrol, Italy. We were cycling on bike paths all day, past vineyards and apple orchards in the valley between Bolzano and Trento.

We found a campground next to Lake Caldaro and were lucky to get the last campsite available. We stared in disbelief at our 12×12 foot rocky space without a table, trees or any kind of barrier. We were sandwiched on three sides between camper vans and mini RVs (giant RVs are unrealistic in Europe). We shrugged and parked our bikes, and then went directly to the lake to jump in and try to forget about it. We felt so crowded and uncomfortable that we avoided our tiny camp until it was time to go to bed.

Luckily, away from our campsite the views were spectacular!

These crowded spaces bring to light how our western idea of personal space is so much bigger than that of Europe. We are spoiled with expansive open spaces, especially when it comes to camping. It was in this crowded camp, however, that we made new friends with a couple from Austria who reached out to us, despite our language barrier.

It was the next morning when we started boiling water for coffee, as we always do. We must have looked pretty pathetic sitting on my yoga mat, hunched over our little stove in the rocks. All around us were campers with full kitchen set ups, some with screened in dining areas. Our closest neighbor must have taken pity on us and walked over with a concerned look on her face. She said something to us in German and we stared back in confusion. Jarrod asked “English?” I piped in, “Italiano?” She shook her head no and continued speaking German. Then she gestured her table to us and we understood that she was offering for us to use her table to make our coffee. We told her danke, but we were fine where we were. It was such a kind gesture, but we didn’t want to intrude. Plus we couldn’t even communicate with her and it would be uncomfortable. She said ok, but her look of concern was still there.

Just then the universe gave me a nudge and our stove gave a final sputter before losing its flame. We were out of fuel. C’mon, REALLY? Right now?? My mom always says things do happen for a reason. I gave Jarrod my I’ve got this look and got up to step outside of my comfort zone (pre-caffeinated) to befriend our neighbor. It was approximately 5 steps to her RV that I had to walk. I held up our pot of luke-warm water and asked to use her stove for coffee. After a few awkward hand gestures she understood and seemed relieved to help. She handed me her electric kettle with hot water ready to go. Then she pointed to her table and chairs and said, “please”.

Before we knew it, both Jarrod and I were sitting at a table with our friendly neighbor and her husband who returned from a morning bike ride. We enjoyed a generous spread of food and spoke to each other in short and simple sentences. Her husband spoke a bit more English and told us that when they camp they don’t just look at their neighbors, they talk with them. I admit I am guilty of just looking, even grimacing that people are camped too close. I usually try to find campsites that are isolated and far away from other human beings. Wow, I am like the Grinch! I’ve certainly never invited camping neighbors over for breakfast! I felt both ashamed and inspired.

We talked about where we were from. They explained how this northwestern part of Italy used to be part of Austria until WWI. It still feels very Austrian and German is the predominant language, so it’s an easy place for them to travel to. They asked about where we live and where our parents live. We explained that we all live in Colorado, but that our town is about a 6 hour drive away from our parents. This distance seemed to shock them. They explained where they live in Austria (somewhere between Vienna and Salzburg, I gathered). They said that their children and grandchildren live behind them. At first I thought they meant that they live in the next town, but they literally live in the house behind them, on the same property. At this they seemed very proud and pulled out photos of their granddaughters whom they see everyday. Why are we are so quick in America to be independent and flee far away from home?

We thanked them for breakfast, which they brushed off as nothing. Really, what we should have thanked them for is the lesson they taught us, which is to reach out to our neighbors, regardless of where they come from, what language they speak and (my biggest lesson) even if you are camping.