A Taste of History: The Old Fashioned

It’s 7pm on a Tuesday night, and I am standing behind the wooden, pre-prohibition bar in the original saloon of Dunton, Colorado. I’m stirring an Old Fashioned for the gentleman across the bar, who may or may not be a celebrity when he isn’t at this hard-to-reach hideaway. Through a Hawthorne strainer I pour the whiskey cocktail into a rocks glass with one solid cube and top it with a twist of an orange peel. The finished drink is passed to the patron across the now-lackered bar that is inscribed with carved names, including the infamous Butch Cassidy. He reaches for the glass and takes a sip. I can see that he is pleased. “That is a good Old Fashioned”, he affirms.

The Old Fashioned is one of the simplest drinks that has more distinct methods and recipes than any other beverage. Each bartender seems to have his or her way of making this popular classic. From whether or not to muddle a lump of sugar to the type of whiskey and the proper garnish; variations abound.

The simple combination of spirits, sugar, water and bitters has been around since the early 1800’s, which is also when the word ‘cocktail’ was first defined. By the 1860’s, Curaçao, Absinthe and other liqueurs were commonly added to the standard ‘cocktail’. At the same time, the original recipe became trendy again and was referred to as the ‘Old Fashioned’. (Yup, it was even considered ‘Old Fashioned” over 150 years ago!) Back then, the base spirit could have been whiskey, gin or brandy, but mostly commonly whiskey. According to a Chicago barman quoted in the Chicago Daily Tribune in 1882, the most popular “Old Fashioned” cocktails were made with whiskey, specifically rye and bourbon.

The first use of the name ‘Old Fashioned’ referring to Bourbon as the base spirit was said to have been in 1881, around the same time when the settlement of Dunton was established as a mining town. A bartender at a gentlemen’s club in Louisville, Kentucky created the bourbon-based cocktail in honor of Colonel James E. Pepper, a master bourbon distiller from nearby Lexington. James was a charismatic, “larger than life bourbon industrialist” and brought the Old Fashioned cocktail recipe to the Waldorf-Astoria Hotel bar in New York City. From there the popularity spread like wild fire.

Still today, 137 years since it was first featured on a menu and over 200 years since the original cocktail, the Old Fashioned is one of the most popular bar orders, widely respected among bartenders and patrons alike.

When I stand behind the dimly lit bar with dusty mirrors behind me, I imagine what the atmosphere was like in this saloon at the turn of the 19th century. At that time Dunton was a rough and gruff mining town. Surely the saloon would have been filled with tobacco smoke and belligerent miners looking for an escape from their harsh daytime routines. The mirror, though not an original like the wooden bar it leans over, would have been useful for patrons to spot any threats from behind. Saloons were often the setting for bar fights and shootings so one had to be on his guard. They were also joyous places to congregate, gamble, dance and laugh, which is what made them so enticing. Sometimes they would even hold church services during the day. I wonder what sort of events this particular saloon witnessed.

The town of Dunton expanded from 50 residents to 300 from 1885 to it’s peak in 1905. At one point there were 9 saloons, including the original one where I work in the evenings. That may seem extreme for such a small town but saloons were a measure of employed miners and prosperity for mining towns. Dunton’s 9 saloons for 300 people would have been impressive for its size, but not unheard of. (In comparison Telluride had 25 saloons, Silverton had 40 and Leadville boasted more than 150). In his book Saloons of the American West, Robert L. Brown points out that “early-day guide books usually listed the number of saloons, general stores, churches, banks and railroads as a town’s most-conspicuous status symbols”.

 

The nearby Emma mine was the foundation for Dunton. The American and Smuggler mines also drew in gold prospectors and kept men busy during the day. In the evenings and on weekends, the saloons served as a social gathering place where “men could be men” without having to worry about washing up or having proper manners.

“Men gathered in saloons simply because they were the only places in which they could socialize with dirty hands and faces. Churches, club rooms reading rooms and libraries would not permit dirt or rough talk and most of their wives discouraged such practices at home.” (Robert L. Brown)

Saloons also offered a break from the realities of a harsh life. They offered emotional release from hard work in the mines and a distraction for lonely miners without families.

“Saloons offered someone to talk with and a warm place in which to sit and relax among the heavy odors of tobacco smoke, sweaty clothing and whisky.” (Robert L. Brown)

Nowadays, the only smoke in the saloon comes from the indoor fireplace that we feed throughout the evening. Other pleasant aromas coming from the kitchen might be a mix of fresh baked brownies, roasted duck and cranberry compote bubbling on the stove. I doubt the saloon smelled so good 120 years ago!

All saloons had unique qualities but most of them commonly featured a “highly polished wooden bar, a brass foot rail, brass spittoons and wooden sand boxes. Most customers missed the sand box as often as they hit it….many chewers didn’t even aim.” As far as mountain mining camp saloons, they were “the most colorful”. (Robert L. Brown). It’s not surprising considering the type that would migrate across the country in search of illusive gold riches underground. To live such a harsh life for something that isn’t guaranteed, one had to have a few screws loose.

I feel lucky to be living and working here now, over a century later with plumbing, pleasant smells and the lack of chewing tobacco on the floor or the harsh realities of mining life. I wonder what the drink of choice would have been back then. A case of Dickel Tennessee Whisky was found underneath the floorboards of the saloon during renovations in the 90’s. Dickel was first established in 1870, so it’s highly likely that the miners were indulging in this whisky, either straight up or perhaps as an Old Fashioned cocktail. Barrels and cases of whiskey were brought to the west with migrants because it was believed to be medicinal. Specifically, it was widely accepted that whisky was a cure for rattlesnake bites. It also made a small mining town with little in regards to entertainment much more enjoyable!

 

I wonder if I would have even been allowed inside the saloons back then. As prostitution became more prevalent in mining towns, some cities forbade women from entering saloons. Some had side doors leading to separate rooms for ladies only. Others had side doors specifically for female dancers and “entertainers” to secretively enter. An old newspaper article in the entrance to the saloon reads that at one point Dunton had a saloon “complete with dancing girls”. I think I prefer mixing drinks and pairing wine with dinner!

Dancing girls or not, saloons did bring people together, regardless of socioeconomic status. “Rich or poor, we’ll attired or otherwise, the corner dram shop was a great social leveler.” (Robert L. Brown)

To a certain degree, one could argue that this statement continues to ring true today. Bars and saloons across the US and across the globe serve as a social gathering place for diverse members of the community, regardless of their status.

One thing is for sure, both men and women, young and old continue to order and enjoy a good “Old Fashioned”.

Below is my favorite recipe, after researching and experimenting with nearly every variation ever recorded.

The ‘Old Fashioned’ Deconstructed:

Whiskey:

I tested various types of bourbon, rye and even Scotch and Dickel, and found the smoothest and most delicious to be Breckenridge Bourbon. (Rye gives it a spicy note, like rye bread and Scotch adds a smokiness that changes the cocktail altogether. Dickel is ok, but it leaves a bit of a grassy aftertaste). Breakenridge Bourbon has notes of sweet vanilla, caramel and honey with a long, smooth finish. Since the Old Fashioned really features the whiskey, it’s best to use a good quality bourbon if you can.

 

Sugar:

Tradtionally, the Old Fashioned is made by first muddling a cube of sugar with a splash of water and bitters. This method tends to leave sugar granules at the bottom of the glass, which isn’t pleasant and doesn’t fully incorprate into the drink as it should. Using simple syrup (a mixture of equal parts sugar and water), mixes easily and fully incorporates into the drink with a few stirs. After experiementing with brown sugar simple syrup, the consenses was that it brings out the most depth and flavor of an Old Fashioned. The sweet hints of caramel and molasses in brown sugar intermingle with similar flavors from the bourbon. Just be sure not to overdo it! For me, a perfect Old Fashioned has between 1/4 and 1/2oz brown sugar simple syrup.

Bitters:

Bitters are an important component in so many cocktails. Think of them as the spice that you add to your dinner on the stove. Without bitters, the Old Fashioned is just plain, sweetened bourbon. It isn’t bad, but it tastes a little flat, like it’s missing something. There are lots of different flavors of bitters, and you can have fun with variations when you go for peach, orange or chocoloate mole. (A maple and peach Old Fashioned or Chocolate mole Scotch Old Fashioned are fun variations). However, for a standard Old Fashioned, good ole’ Angostura Bitters is the way to go. Two dashes to be precise. (That’s 2 shakes). I have tried adding one dash of Regan’s Orange bitters in addition, but it came out too orange-y and gave it an unnatural orange hue.

Method: Stirred, not shaken

In general, if cocktails call for juice, egg whites, dairy or liquers, you should shake them to fully incorporate all the flavors and textures. (Note: Shaking a drink makes it foamy, which may or may not be what you want). Otherwise, with spirit-based cocktails like the Old Fashioned, they should be stirred so as not to incorporate air into them. Stiring blends the ingredients, chills the drink and dilutes it slightly (which is why you don’t want to over-stir). To stir your cocktail, add all the ingredients into a mixing glass full of ice and with a bar spoon stir in one direction with the back of the spoon against the glass. Stir like this for about 20 seconds.

Strain Over Ice:

Once the ingredients are fully incorporated and chilled, strain into a rocks glass with a big ice cube. The big cube not only looks good, but it melts more slowly than smaller cubes, so your drink is dilluted at a nice slow pace.

Garnish:

Some may argue that the garnish is optional but in my opinion, the orange peel garnish is one of the most important elements to this drink. It adds sweet citrus oils and a beautiful aroma that enhances the bourbon. Be sure to use a fresh, clean orange and peel off just the skin (not the bitter white pith). You can use a knife or vegetable peeler (which is easiest and also effective). Once you peel off a nice piece, rub the skin side down on the rim and carefully twist it above the glass. This will release those beautiful citrus oils right on top. Then you can place the peel in the glass next to the cube.

Note: A lemon twist instead of orange is a nice pair with a spicy rye Old Fashioned. As much as I love cherries, they are not traditionally used to garnish this cocktail. Instead, use your brandied cherries in a Manhattan!

Old Fashioned

• 2oz good quality Bourbon (Such as Breckenridge Bourbon)
• 1/4 to 1/2 oz Brown Sugar Syrup*
• 2 Dashes Angostura Bitters
• Orange peel garnish

Method: Pour bourbon, syrup and bitters over ice and stir for 20 seconds. Strain over one big cube of ice in a rocks glass. Garnish with a generous orange peel. Rub skin side down around the rim of the glass and give it a twist to release the citrus oils. Enjoy!

*Brown Sugar simple syrup: Boil 1 cup of water and add it to a jar with one cup of brown sugar. Stir and let cool. Store in the refrigerator for up to 3 months.

Cheers to appreciating a taste of our Colorful history!

Sources:

Saloons of the American West, Robert L. Brown

The R.G.S. Story, Rio Grande Southern Volume V, McCoy, Collman, Graves

Jamesepepper.com

Wikipedia